India’s northernmost and sixth-largest state, Jammu and Kashmir (usually
shortened to J&K), is one of its most mountainous and staggeringly
beautiful. It also encapsulates the cultural and religious diversity of
the Subcontinent by falling into three distinct regions. The
southwestern end of its thick bracket-shaped expanse is the
Hindu-majority area around the winter capital of Jammu. Directly to the
north across the first range of the Himalayas is the almost exclusively
Muslim Kashmir, as infamous for its ongoing political woes as it is
renowned for its enchanting beauty. Finally, to the northeast, hugging
the disputed borders with both Pakistan and China, the remote and rugged
region of Ladakh, which occupies nearly seventy percent of the
state according to its de facto borders, is populated mostly by
adherents of Tibetan Buddhism.
Jammu is the state’s largest city and the traditional stepping-stone
into the region, worthy of a stopover in its own right for its imposing
fort and admirable collection of temples. Most foreigners, however, head
immediately for the summer capital of Srinagar, lynchpin of the famed Kashmir Valley, which also offers the green hills and meadows of Gulmarg and Pahalgam. Unless you fly direct to the enchanting capital of Ladakh, Leh,
the decision of when to visit Ladakh is largely made for you: the
passes into the region are only open between late June and late October,
when the sun is at its strongest and the weather, at least during the
day, pleasantly warm. From November onwards, temperatures drop fast,
often plummeting to minus 40oC between December and February, when the
only way in and out of Zanskar is along the frozen surface of the river.
Leh is surrounded by numerous villages dominated by venerable
monasteries such as Tikse and Hemis or, further west, Lamayuru. The latter provides a good stopover en route to Kargil, halfway along the Srinagar–Leh road and the jumping-off point for the isolated Zanskar Valley.
Other sparsely populated but exquisite areas worth the bumpy detours
involved in reaching them from Leh include the icy lakes of Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri, as well as the almost surreal Nubra Valley, with its sand dunes and wandering camels.
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